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Thread: Break settings on a Flick for example.

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  1. #16

    Question Re: Break settings on a Flick for example.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Aiello
    The (old) "pull the toggles down to stall and mark" technique finds the DBS for an unvented canopy.
    How would you find a DBS for a vented canopy, use the stall and mark, and then let up a bit?

  2. #17

    Re: Break settings on a Flick for example.

    > How would you find a DBS for a vented canopy, use the stall and mark, and then let up a bit?
    My understanding is the following.
    If with a Vtec+valved parachute you skydive, find the stall point, let up a bit (up to you are starting to fly properly): you find the perfect DBS for that parachute WITHOUT Vtec+valves. In fact you have found the stall point NOT at the opening (where Vtec+valves take a big role) but during "normal" flight, where Vtec does not play a big role (because of the valves).
    But the only thing we can do on a skydive with our Vtec+valved BASE parachute is to find the DBS for the "unvented/unvalved" version of our BASE parachute.
    To find the real DBS for our real parachute with Vtec+valves, we need to start trying (from that position) going shallower until we get to a position for DBS that allows opening and flying with brakes set WITHOUT being too close to stall point (so being able to do a riser turn without stalling).
    Just my 0.02€
    Stay Safe Out There
    Blue Skies and Soft Walls
    BASE #689

  3. #18
    Tom Aiello
    Guest

    Re: Break settings on a Flick for example.

    Quote Originally Posted by BASE_689
    To find the real DBS for our real parachute with Vtec+valves, we need to start trying (from that position) going shallower until we get to a position for DBS that allows opening and flying with brakes set WITHOUT being too close to stall point (so being able to do a riser turn without stalling).
    Yep. That's what I think, anyway. I have the luxury of being able to do repeated test jumps very easily, which I realize most people can't do.

    Unfortunately, it's tough to generalize, since the correct set point will change with every canopy/jumper combination.

    But, if we all started finding our custom settings, and posting the location of the setting in some standardized format, we could start to compile a database that would help people find the right settings for themselves.

    I think you'd need to report (at a minimum):

    canopy model
    canopy size
    total exit weight
    control line configuration (4 or 5 lines, and where they are attached--this varies a bit, I think)
    location of brake setting (probably in cm from the cascade, but maybe in cm from the innermost [or other designated] control line attachment to canopy--I think it needs to be in distance from the top because the "factory" settings have moved over the years, so they aren't a very reliable starting point)

    What do you think? Should we start collecting data?

  4. #19

    Re: Break settings on a Flick for example.

    What do you think? Should we start collecting data?
    I think thats a good idea.......... some reference table from this would be quite helpful I think

  5. #20
    BLiNC Magazine Supporter (Silver) Faber's Avatar
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    Re: Break settings on a Flick for example.

    Just to say,that most manfuactored settings aint all wrong,what i did were to get sewed some loops to the toogle and simply pack it whith deeper brake then i made a bunch of jumps on it,then went deeper untill i opened in a stall,then i went shallower,got a hole bunch of jumps on it on that setting(in varius of wind)before i desided it were there..

    It aint that bad just dont test it off a B..... but to a object thats safe as posibly(ofcourse a S is the best option,i did it on My local A....

    just to thouse who as others no longer skydives..

  6. #21
    baseninja
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    Re: Break settings on a Flick for example.

    Is BR still shipping canopies with only one brake setting? And strongly suggesting not putting a second brake setting on there?

    How is it possible for the Fox/Flik to have a single brake setting that is deep enough to avoid smacking a cliff slider down, but also shallow enough to keep the canopy from opening in a stall slider-up? How would a jumper adjust this to personalize this for their own weight? Are any other manufacturers doing this?

  7. #22
    Tom Aiello
    Guest

    Re: Break settings on a Flick for example.

    Quote Originally Posted by baseninja
    Is BR still shipping canopies with only one brake setting? And strongly suggesting not putting a second brake setting on there?
    I believe so. But that's a question better directed to the manufacturer. I'm not sure if they're thinking of changing this in the Apex merger or not. Last I saw, Vertigo canopies were shipped with 2 settings, and BR with one. So I don't know what Apex will do in the future.


    Quote Originally Posted by baseninja
    How is it possible for the Fox/Flik to have a single brake setting that is deep enough to avoid smacking a cliff slider down, but also shallow enough to keep the canopy from opening in a stall slider-up?
    I'd say that's a question to direct to the manufacturer.


    Quote Originally Posted by baseninja
    How would a jumper adjust this to personalize this for their own weight?
    I'd say trial and error is your best bet at this point.


    Quote Originally Posted by baseninja
    Are any other manufacturers doing this?
    I don't know what's currently being shipped. You might want to ask the manufacturers that one, too.

  8. #23
    BLiNC Magazine Supporter (Silver) Faber's Avatar
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    Re: Break settings on a Flick for example.

    My Flik(only like 6months old or so)came whit 1 setting,actualy i like it that way rather than 2 settings,that way its more easy to me and my rigger to move up and down on the brake setting as we like...
    2 setting would make more work(IF you deside to make the personal settings)..
    Just my 0.2

  9. #24
    baseninja
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    Re: Break settings on a Flick for example.

    I was actually wondering why canopies don't come with 6-8 settings.

    I think most jumpers agree that it is important to adjust brake settings, and accept that they will most likely have to be moved from the factory settings.

    However, I don't have the extra Dacron, bartack machines, fids, etc, and don't go to the rigging loft often enough to get them moved inch by inch... And if I do, my rigs are always packed after I jump, so I can't mess with it then... I think it would even help for when canopies get sold, and would be so much easier to dial-in your personal brake settings....

    Just an idea...

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