A Little More Negative Press for the NPS

[guest]

I ran across this bit in an interview with Dean Potter (a Yosemite super climber), in the May 2001 "Climbing".

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Climbing: Anything you dislike about Yosemite?
Potter: I don't like the way I don't feel free when I'm there. I feel that our national parks aren't ours anymore; we are held under more rules than anywhere else. I don't like...the feeling of always having to hide from the rangers.

Climbing: Tell me more.
Potter: ...Yosemite Rangers have been partially responsible for the deaths of two of my friends. By chasing Frank Gamballie into a raging class 4 rapid and by pushing Dano to a state of irrational thought...

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Anyway, it's just good to know that many climbers feel the same way we do about the NPS and their policies.

--Tom Aiello
tbaiello@ucdavis.edu

[guest]

Todd:

Any way you can include more of the interview, or was that all there was referring to those people?

[guest]

Tom, just wondering if you feel the same way when you go to Yosemite to climb? Do you feel like your freedom is less there than other places?

[guest]

In answer to Robin's question:

There was quite a bit more of the interview, but most of it was only interesting to climbers. Quite a bit of it was Dean Potter's personal philosophy (heavy on personal freedom), and solo rock climbing (heavy on excitement). The only direct references to those people were the ones I included originally.

In response to the question about climbing in the Valley:

I do feel more regulated (and hence less free) in the Valley than in any other climbing area. The reason for it is that the NPS is trying to maintain "Yosemiteland Park" for the general public. Since their idea of a creating a wholesome family environment generally conflicts with my ideas about how to live my life, and who to associate with (can't have any of those dirty climbers wandering into our five star hotel now, can we? ), I usually feel constrained while I am in the Valley. An interesting point is that most of the NPS personnel I know feel the same way I do (i.e. generally disgusted by the NPS idea of the wilderness experience).

However, this feeling is significantly less once I get off the Valley floor and either into the back country or onto a wall. It's still a bit odd to run into a ranger fixing on the captain, though.

It is also interesting to note that at least one noteworthy climber (Kurt Smith) who had been a Valley regular, left Yosemite, never to return, after a run-in with the NPS (they ticketed him some ungodly amount for using a power drill on El Cap). Without taking a position on his actions, it can still be observed that he, at least, felt significantly less free due to the NPS restrictions on climbing behavior.

--Tom Aiello
tbaiello@ucdavis.edu

[guest]

It's funny that I get this odd feeling in the pit of my stomach whenever I drive into the Valley. Whether my plans include ascent or descent there's the feeling of having to avoid "the Man". Personal freedom and The Valley don't seem to go in the same breath very well. You feel like you're getting over on the system when you've got to guerilla camp or fix lines pre-takeoff. The backcountry approaches are the only reason I don't go further afield for walls. As you said, it all goes away as ones world narrows for the focus required for going up or down a big stone.