Twin Falls and Moab in May??

[RacerX]

I am planning a BASE/climbing trip to Twin Falls for around the second week of May. I would also be interested in trying to hit Moab for half the week too. I'm telling you this because I would welcome anyone that wants to get together (especially if you climb! But that's not necessary).

I want to do some climbing at the City of Rocks and also in Moab (I will be bringing a full trad rack or at least sport gear, depending on what the guide books help me decide on).

As far as jumping goes, I am planning on bringing my video gear to try to get a bunch of different angles and it would be cool to have someone help with this. Kind of swap videos as we trade jumps. I also hope to be travelling with one of my climbing buddies, who would be carrying another video cam too.



Here are the questions. As near as I can tell, it is probably best (??) to fly to Salt Lake City and drive from there. Is this true? Also, as near as I can tell from all the maps I've looked at, Twin Falls and Moab seem to both be about 250 miles from SLC (in opposite directions). That should add up to about 4-5 hours in a car to either location, assuming good highway travel. Is this close to the truth?

Well, that's about it. I am really looking for any insight I can get about jumping or climbing. And if anyone wants to meet up, let me know. We can try to work that out too!

Thanks! Andy
PS. I'm not sure if this post jumped around too much, but any insight would be appreciated!!

[Indy]

The speed limit from Salt Lake to Twin is 75 and there is little traffic so it's actually no more than three and a half hours. Moab is about 3 to 4 hours depending on lots of variables. Moab has lots of people and stores with climbing info. City of Rocks is more remote, but has towns close by. In May you will most likely run into base jumpers in both locations.
Sounds like a fun trip. Have a good one!

[jon593]

Bring the sport rack for City of Rocks and Trad for Moab. If you want to do the desert classics like Castleton then the rack is pretty light. Bring lots of slings. The classic pitches can be short but indirect. If you want to go to Indian Creek and do the long cracks then triple and quadruple up on the cams for the long parallel cracks.

Talk to D-dog about the city.

[clint]

Hey Andy, Yes, you fly into SLC and then go either way first. Well the Perinne is good to start. The first post is about the time is correct.
I live in Moab now but I'm leaving May 1st. Call Vertigo and they are great people, they'll tell you everything you need to know, you just have to ask. Wish I was going to be here when you get here, not much of a climber but it's nice to try new things.
Have a good vacation.
Clint

[RacerX]

Hey thanks everyone for the feedback. I am really looking forward to this trip. It's starting to come together slowly.

I am probably trying to do too much in one trip, but we'll see how it goes. I may stay in Idaho this time and hit moab another week. But if the ride to Twin falls isn't too bad, and we get a lot of stuff in in the first few days, then maybe we'll still head for Moab. I'm sure it will be an adventure either way!

Thanks again. Andy

[jon593]

The appetizer is in Idaho...

the MAIN COURSE is in Utah both for climbing and jumping...

jon

[zennie]

A few of us are seriously considering going out to Twin Falls for Memorial Day weekend. I may extend my vacation and trek on over to Moab afterward. :D

[RacerX]

We thought about that weekend too but figured both places would be a zoo. We found some really cheap flights for the second week of May and are still planning the trip! Can't wait.

[d-dog]

>Talk to D-dog about the city.

Yipes! The last time I climbed in the City was, oooh. . . 1992.

Relying on my old-dog memory, here's what I have: they City is a really beautiful granite climbing area. Weather there in May can be very cold, including lots of snow so be aware of that - I've been snowed out during June trips, though in the last decade global warming might have "fixed" that problem :7

Most of the classics there are bolted, so yes you won't need a big rack. There's a few longer pitches with 12+ bolts on them which means you need to have plenty of draws or just be willing to skip bolts to save gear!

Grades are pretty solid. Not many scary runouts on the bolted stuff.

There was a formation (called the Dolphin?) on which Tony Yaniro put up several good, hard routes in the '80s. Later there were rumors of chipped holds on them, but I never verified that charge with Tony himself so I don't know for sure. I heard that the Dolphin formation was put off-limits in the early '90s for some reason, but it might be that it's opened up again as I know the Access Fund has done some work in the City the last few years. It'd be cool to go back and get on those "old" routes, they were really aesthetic and were quite the testpieces in their day (back when .13d was "hard" - ha!).

There's also a Yaniro/Suzuki finger crack there called Stingray (I think), that went at .13d/.14a and, I believe, has never seen a repeat. There were charges that the jams were opened up with pins prior to the redpoint, and those charges were pretty much verified. Still, it's a sick-hard crack and if you repeat it I'll buy you a beer. Hidetaka has really tiny fingers and even he said the jams were tiny, so be forewarned.

Anyway, there's my City beta. It's a really beautiful place, so enjoy - I bet nobody goes there anymore since it's not cool, so you should have plenty of piece and quiet. Let me know if you seen any good bouldering potential - it'd be fun to develop some new-wave bouldering there.

Peace,

D-d0g

[RacerX]

Thanks for the beta! I am actually glad that there is a decent amount of bolted routes. We are going to be loaded with other gear. I also didn't want to have to load up on a few hundred dollars worth of cam's to fatten up my rack.

And we should be in shape enough for some 10-11's by then (Winter has been tough!). So I think that other crack is going to remain untested!

Looks like it will be a good time either way!

Andy

www.alienXworld.com

[Lucky]

It's about time people start talking about coming to Twin.
See you really soon!
Lucky

[zennie]

OK I have dates...

346 & I will be in Twin Falls from Friday the 23rd until Tuesday the 27th. I'll be heading on to Moab on the 27th and staying until the 31st.

Look forward to meeting folks out there! :D